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Thread: pests

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    is a mix of 50/50 white vineger and water a good fix?

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    when i say pests i talking the flying kind

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    ...well, there are more than 1 kind of flying pest but the most common 1 is fungus gnats and in most cases the easiest way to treat gnats is to put in a couple yellow sticky traps which attract the flyers, the flyers are the egg layers so it'll take a week to 2 weeks to catch all the flyers, after that, no more gnats.

    ...this will work by itself in just about any grow except for large grows, say greenhouse sized.

    peace, SOG

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    Also insecticidal soap. Can be home made off youtube. Leaf miners drop from leaf onto soil then mature so spray a little on there too. Stuff washes off easy. Company named Safer sells or make your own.
    You stick a bunch of females together and don't want any problems? Good luck. They are going to mess you up.

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    cool thanks..

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    Quote Originally Posted by someoldguy View Post
    ...well, there are more than 1 kind of flying pest but the most common 1 is fungus gnats and in most cases the easiest way to treat gnats is to put in a couple yellow sticky traps which attract the flyers, the flyers are the egg layers so it'll take a week to 2 weeks to catch all the flyers, after that, no more gnats.

    ...this will work by itself in just about any grow except for large grows, say greenhouse sized.

    peace, SOG
    I picked up 20 of the double sided yellow sticky's and caught a bunch right off the bat. Even after some traps blew off onto the ground they just kept catching. Didn't like how little gecko's get caught which requires a toothpick and olive oil to get them off Anyway those yellow sticky traps catch the attracted to yellow guys but for the nectar sucking thrip's or aphids they don't go for yellow here. Tried the suggested lime green and blue and it didn't attract them either.

    It's a war out there!!!!! Safer brand makes a tomato spray that seems to act like permethrin. The Safer brand spray contains pyrethrins (.012%) and potassium salts of fatty acids (1.015%). Seems the army likes the meth version uh.... oh well. Wore the stuff for years in every weather and once dried keeps performing bug killing for months even after detergent washing which is advised after initial treatment of uniform. Didn't die at least. Wondering if it wears off of a plant from respiration or even a quick diluted hydrogen peroxide bath. Stuff kills like a champ and the army variety seen in the video below is available on amazon. Makes an excellent perimeter defense on house or greenhouse.

    Yah it's sickening to wear this stuff watching prehistoric bugs drop that survive the worst of things and contemplate what the heck am I doing wearing the stuff. Works wonders on perimeters. Just watch how fast it kills when it is dry on a uniform that has even been washed a bunch of times.

    You stick a bunch of females together and don't want any problems? Good luck. They are going to mess you up.

  7. #7
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    the vinegar and water

    I definitely wouldn't do it personally

    I use white vinegar in my pump sprayer to kill young weeds in between my paving stones, it is deadly effective and they show effects within a couple of hours if it is hot outside. Mutilates them right up... It is a well known herbicide going back many eons basically. So that might kill your plants, and the pests will probably still be laughing at you, although you'll maybe get some of the little buggers. I don't imagine 50% dilution will make much of a difference to the plant lethality of it

    Soaps are good, bronners in lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus are all ones I have used with success. There are actual horticultural soaps too, safer's is a brand that comes to memory. Essential oils are also extremely effective. The ones I just mentioned, and clove, rosemary, thyme, cinnamon, lemongrass, palmarosa etc. What you use will depend on the pests you have, research accordingly. You don't need much of this stuff, 0.5% oils is what I like to do until I know I am in safe territory then I adjust upwards if the effects are not as violent on the pests as I would like. Do not spray when the lights are on/sun is up, or you'll burn everything probably

    Many of these natural things have subtle actions and are not characterized by instant knockdown, but if you persist, the pests will leave, trust me. Neem is a classic example of the more subtle effects and great prevention but less effective as fast cure; the cold-pressed kind that you get from a health store or ayurveda place or whatever is much better than the horticultural kind usually, but requires emulsification. Use the bronners soap for that or use the real stuff the pesticide industry uses, called rimulgan, and mix it yourself. You can get this where you get neem usually, for next time round

    Much of what it comes down to is that for any serious infestation, your ability to be persistent and terrorize the invaders ruthlessly is the most important thing really. Learn what they are exactly, learn their lifecycle, then spray in a regimen that is tighter than the amount of days it takes for them to go from egg to breeding age. If it takes them three days from hatched egg to breeding adult, you spray every two days for example. You keep this up for a while, soon there is no breeding, the adults are dead, and any eggs are hatched and also killed, even if your spray is only killing the adults you still get them all. Game over, thanks for playing. It's a war of attrition and you have to be more persistent than the pests. The real plus of these products is their ability to go without the pests building resistance to them. Google it, you will find endless white paper science for hours about extremely promising results using essential oils on many various pests. One I read had +-95% mortality on mites with cold-pressed hemp oil at 0.1% concentration LOL it's one I will also try out in the future I guess because that really sounds kinda amazing to me and hemp oil at 0.1% is very unlikely to do anything ugly to a hemp plant IMHO, they are made of the same thing

    if it's just gnats then all of that is overkill and just go with the stickies as SOG said, unless you have it real bad that'll clean it up if you stop overwatering, which is the main cause of how they tend to appear in the first place, they love overly wet material full of fungus right at the top of the media; if you let it dry out at the surface they won't be as eager. There is also a biological control for gnats called Bacillus Thuriengensis Israeliensis AKA gnatrol, mosquito dunks, etc if you have it real bad this should put the kibosh on it. Neem meal top dressing will also help prevent gnats IME but it's only for organic systems, I wouldn't try and put it into anything else. If you use the stickies and BTI you are set. Stickies get the flyers, bacillus gets the baby white worm gnat scoundrels in the soil, and you keep conditions right so they don't return basically. If they do, the BTI is persistent for 14 days at a time in soil I think, and your stickies are still there catching flyers so you are breaking the breeding cycle in any case

    good luck
    PO

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    awsome info you guys are great

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    Hello All, forgive me if you will as Im not sure how to post a question in a thread, this being my first time, and first grow year. However Im in real need of any helpful advice please

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    any advice for getting rid of caterpillars? 1st time grower was going to harvest today but not sure if I should wait until i treat the ladies with the proper concoction

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